Saturday, October 08, 2005

Food in Mexico: Floating lunch in Xochilmilco


According to my guidebook, 'Xochimilco is a throwback to the capital's Aztec origins, with its canals and "floating" nursery gardens'. Apparently the Aztecs created these floating gardens or chinampas to grow various vegetables, fruits and flowers in order to supply the capital Tenochtitlán. If you look at old maps, you can see that Tenochtitlán was a small town surrounded by lots of water. To overcome this shortage of farmland, the Aztecs developed a system of 'floating gardens' that are rooted by willow trees. Xochimilco is on a southern edge of Ciudad de Mexico, and a popular destination for Mexican families to spend their weekend. We went there after a lovely morning at Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño (where I spotted these incredibly rare, incredibly expensive and not particularly pretty hairless pre-Hispanic dogs Xoloitzcuintle!).

You rent a colourfully decorated trajinera or a Mexican gondola/punt and a punter and spend a leisurely hour and half floating on the canal system. And just enjoy yourself. Should you need some entertainment, then there are plenty of musicians, including mariachi singers, who volunteer to break the silence - in our case two cylophone players:


Should you get hungry, there's no need to despair either. Every now and then a floating 'restaurant' would pass by and offer you something, whether it's refreshments, tortillas or maize:


We also spotted few boats with large families on board, who had brought along their cooks who were serving them food on the boat. Again, quoting my guidebook, the punts, 'packed with large groups or families, combined with countless flower- and food-sellers in canoes to create watery traffic jams. But this is Mexico, and chaos is part of the colorful picture'. As we were in Xochimilco on a Thursday afternoon, it was quite peaceful and relaxing. I really enjoyed the trip, but I'm afraid I would have found the full show on the weekends a bit too noisy and chaotic. I am Estonian after all:)

Thursday, October 06, 2005

Food in Mexico: exotic fruit, grainy wall and a meal with a view in Tepostlán


Here are few pictures from my second full day in Mexico. Mexico (oh well, I guess this is not gonna be in chronological order). We had spent the previous night in Guernavaca, and on Sunday headed to this small Indian town which is famous for its church, lively market and Toltec (predecessors of the Aztecs) archeological ruins.

The market was indeed lively, colourful and very vibrant - and we admired this interesting mosaic town gate just next to the market. The mosaic is made up of various grains and seeds - I spotted sunflower seeds (pepitas), various dried beans and pulses, different types of rice and peppercorns.

I also really enjoyed exploring the market, and it was here in Tepostlán that I got my first taste of really ripe exotic tropical fruits. On this picture the guy is slicing some cirvela fruit for us to try, I believe. It was really nice, with a hint of watermelon.

Here, on the other hand, I saw, touched and ate my first mamey fruit. Beautiful colour, and lovely taste, though I thought it needed a drop or two of lemon juice. My friend Ada used mamey for a smoothie next morning. And apparently it doesn't require any lemon juice at all. Who am I to argue with the locals:)

We ended the visit with a glass of limonada for girls and a cocktail made of beer, Tabasco and tomato juice for one and milk for the other guy at this nicely located restaurant. Look at the view of Tepozteco mountain (and El Tepozteco pyramid that is hidden in the mist)!!!

Tuesday, October 04, 2005

Living the Mexican telenovela



I am back in Edinburgh after 10 days in Mexico. Still slightly jetlagged, granted, but I am happy to report that I had a wonderful holiday. I stayed with my friends Ada & Mauricio and their adorable children Fernanda & Pablo (thank you so much!!!), who showed me around Mexico City, Taxco, Tepostlan, and Guernavaca and generally took extremely good care of me. I enjoyed every minute of my trip (apart from the long-haul flights, that is...)

The only downside to the trip was that at a true telenovela fashion, the bride called off the 650-person wedding just 2 days before it was supposed to take place, the upset groom fled Ciudad de Mexico with his family to lick his wounds, and we ended up going to just a nice no-wedding dinner with friends instead.. Oh well, there will be another Mexican wedding to attend in the future, hopefully...

Most importantly, I ate well during my trip. It will take a few days before I sort out my photos and start posting again, but here's a glimpse of things to come.

* My first ever hacienda lunch
* Ingredient spotlight: huitlacoche
* Fruit-shopping in Tepostlan and below my window
* OTT Mexican lunch experience
* Classy Mexican lunch at Villa Maria, Jerónimo
* Floating lunch in Xochilmilco
* Eating the national colours
* Mexican marketing tricks or how to make sure a customer will say Yes
* Mexican hot chocolate
* Another hacienda meal
* The no-wedding dinner

Some of them I will just mention in my future posts, some of them I will write about more in my "Eating Mexican" series. Hope you will be back reading!