Sunday, August 07, 2005

Preparing for winter: Redcurrant Jelly, Tomato & Cinnamon Jam, Green Tomato Chutney


I am yet to have my scant 10-day summer vacation in Estonia when British food magazines headline with stories like "Jamie's Cool Dinners: It's not just up to schools to give kids healthy food", "Lesley's lunchboxes: back-to-school ideas from Ready Steady Cook regular Lesley Waters" and such like. It dawned upon me that although the various festivals have just started and the weather is still untypically warm(ish) and sunny here in Edinburgh, the summer is slowly, but steadily, drawing upon its unwelcome end. Scary. Toooooo scary..

And I was wondering if I should start preparing for the winter by stocking up my larder. Not that I have a larder in my rented Edinburgh flat, and my shared fridge is on a small side as well. But stocking up for winter must be in my genes. I grew up in Tallinn in a house with a big garden, and I remember how every July-August-September we were busy preparing for the winter. Our larder and basement storage was always full of jars and bottles of different shapes and sizes, containing various goodies for later consumption. We pickled cucumbers, tomatoes and mushrooms, made juice, jams and marmalades, cooked different chutneys and relishes - you name it. To a certain degree it was a necessity - growing up in a Soviet era meant a miserable choice of food products - and later a lack of food products - in shops, so people learnt to become self-sufficient (vegetable patch in the back garden or summer house, bulk buying fresh fruit and veg at the markets to prepare at home etc). Nowadays there's no urgent need for preserving food for winter - you can buy pretty much everything in shops and some of the (local) shop-bought preserves and jams aren't bad at all. And in the era of deep freezers, most fresh fruit gets mixed with sugar and simply defrosted as needed over the winter. But people still do. Maybe there's a domestic goddess hidden in many more of us than we acknowledge..

Luckily my close and extended family hasn't given up on home-made jams and preserves and pickles. As everyone has their "best-selling" products, there's even some kind of division of labour going on. My mum makes really nice pickled cucumbers, pickled winter squash and various chutneys and relishes that figure heavily throughout the winter months. My paternal grandmother, Mamma, makes the best tomatoes in brine one can dream of (she adds loads of fully grown dill flowers to the saucepan which definitely helps). My maternal grandmother, Vanaema, makes lingonberry jam that's absolutely must-have at any Christmas table, and a lovely old-fashioned sticky strawberry jam (and while she was still living in a countryside, we got our year's supply of potatoes from her, as well as helped to make tons of apple juice from the crop of her orchard). My aunt Vaike knows the whereabouts of best mushroom foraging forests, and makes a wide variety of delicious pickled, salted and marinated mushrooms (come to think of that, my god-mother Aime's mushrooms aren't bad either). My uncle Jüri makes delicious sauerkraut in a huge wooden barrel on the balcony of his tenement flat. Whenever relatives visit, they swap preserves and condiments with each other (apparently some pickled mushrooms from my auntie are already waiting for me). It's almost like blogging by mail, isn't it:)

On Saturday I had another lovely trip to Edinburgh's now weekly Farmers Market, and this time my shopping bag was much more colourful (last time it was slightly on a green side, if you remember). As I'm leaving for Estonia on Wednesday morning, I wasn't really stocking up on fresh fruit and veg, but rather just enjoying the atmosphere before sitting down comfortably with a coffee and a weekend newspaper in a cafe. Well, that was the plan.

However, I couldn't really restrain myself and ended up buying 6 pots of herbs from an Aberdonian herb grower for my new windowsill herb garden (celery, English lavender, lovage, Vietnamese coriander, sweet marjoram and basil mint), some gorgeously red redcurrants, bright orange carrots, sweet Scottish mini tomatoes, and a big bag of green tomatoes, among other things.

As there was no way I could eat through all those vegetables before heading home for some truly home-grown bounty, I started preparing for the winter, just like in the old days. After couple of hours in the kitchen I ended up with the following (from top left to the right on above picture):

A jar of deep ruby red and absolutely delicious redcurrant jelly, following a very simple recipe from Delia. It was extremely easy to make, the jelly set very easily, and had a lovely balance of sweetness and tartness.
I didn't strain my jelly through a double-thickness muslin cloth as prescribed by Delia, just because 1) I didn't have one at hand and 2) I wasn't after a chrystal clear jelly in the first place, so a fine sieve did the job just as well.

A jar of very cinnamonny tomato jam following a recipe from Clotilde of Chocolate & Zucchini. This fancy-sounding Confiture de Tomates Cerises à la Cannelle was also utterly delicious (I used very sweet Scottish-grown mini plum tomatoes) and I don't think I'll manage to leave it in peace and let it 'ripen' in my fridge for too long before I feel the urge to spread that very jam on my toast in the mornings. But then, the cinnamon smell made me feel very Christmassy, so maybe I can exercise self-control and wait until then. (Taste-wise, the recipe was perfect. If I'm fussy, I may skin the tomatoes next time, but I don't think it's absolutely necessary.)

There are two larger jars of green tomato chutney/relish with onion, red peppers, black peppercorns, mustard seeds, bay leaves, olive oil and white wine vinegar, that I plan to use as a condiment to various meat dishes and cheese later during the year. I combined couple of recipes to make these - I was looking for something with slightly less sugar and more 'savoury' spices (i.e. pepper and mustard seeds as opposed to raisins, cinnamon, cloves and ginger). I may have added just a dash too much white wine vinegar to the marinade in the recipe converting and adaptation process, but I am hopeful that the vinegar flavour mellows after a while.

And then there are two jars of sliced carrots in a rosemary and orange brine, which I will write about separately soon, as these are for consumption within a week and thus do not fall into 'preparing for winter' category:)

Kirsstomatimarmelaadi retsept
Punasesõstratarretise retsept

Friday, August 05, 2005

Chocolate and Raspberry Muffins

One of my favourite deli shops in Edinburgh, Peckham's, is still stocking some gorgeous Scottish raspberries from Bruce's of Balmyle. Apparently Scotland is rather good in growing raspberries - the fruit seams to agree with the Scottish weather - and who am I to argue. (The ones in my mum's garden come close though, and I miss the pretty yellow variety she grows). I reckon I've bought a box of those raspberries every other day, usually popping them into my mouth when watching news or reading. They're so tasty and full of flavour that it'd be pity to cook them.

Still, I used these raspberries in Cranachan few weeks ago, though this wasn't really 'cooking' the raspberries. This time I decided to make a batch of chocolate and raspberry muffins, as I had got a few requests for this from visitors to my Estonian language website and I thought to try them out.

Eventually I found and followed a recipe from Cadbury's website pretty much to the letter, although I slightly reduced the amount of cocoa (I reckoned my Green & Black's organic cocoa powder may be stronger than Cadbury Bournville Cocoa). I'm not too keen on chocolate muffins in general, so I was trying to be on the safe side.

Cadbury's Chocolate Raspberry Muffins

125 grams butter, softened
250 ml caster sugar
2 eggs, room temperature
375 ml self-raising flour
75 ml cocoa powder
0.5 tsp bicarbonate soda
250 ml milk
150 grams fresh or frozen raspberries

Preheat oven to conventional or 170ºC fan forced.
Combine butter, sugar and eggs in a bowl and mix until light and creamy.
Sift flour, cocoa, and bicarbonate soda. Add to creamed mixture with milk. Mix thoroughly until the mixture is smooth.
Spoon into greased 12-hole muffin pan.
Top all muffins with raspberries and bake at 190ºC for 20 minutes or until skewer comes out clean.
Cool and dust with icing/confectioner's sugar before serving.

The recipe was easy and muffins lovely. Although the recipe said that it would yield 12 muffins (using 1/3 cup muffin pan), then I ended up with 12 regular and 18 mini muffins. I used 3 raspberries to decorate the regular muffins and 1 to decorate mini muffins. I liked the way how the raspberries 'drowned' in the batter during baking.

And I enjoyed the end result - moist raspberry centre, not too chocolatey (I'm a self-confessed chocoholic, but I do _not_ like chocolate or cocoa in my muffins curiously). The raspberries nicely balanced the cocoa flavour. Even my Turkish flatmate, who dislikes chocolate muffins AND raspberries (apparently the latter isn't really to the Mediterranean taste buds), had one:)

Just wondering if it's correct to call these 'chocolate and raspberry muffins' if they don't contain any chocolate. Should it be 'cocoa and raspberry muffins' instead?

Kakao-vaarikamuffinite retsept

Thursday, August 04, 2005

EBBM1: Thank you, the passionate cook!

Well, well, well. Sometimes Royal Mail really excels. I posted my Europan Blogging By Mail on Monday afternoon (kindly hosted and coordinated by Andrew at Spittoon), and as I had a slight exchance of unpleasantries with my post office clerk I was thinking afterwards that I should have asked for a proof of postage, should the parcel mysteriously dissappear. But I was pleased to find out on Tuesday afternoon that my EBBM buddy Moira of beautiful Who Wants Seconds had received the parcel on that morning (click here for Moira's very kind write-up).

This was good news. And even better news was that I had been woken up by postman that morning, delivering a food parcel sent to me! Hurray! Excited like a small kid on Christmas eve (that's when we open our presents back home), I quickly took a snapshot of my parcel before tearing the wrapping apart.

My lovely-lovely parcel came from Johanna of the passionate cook and what a treat it was. All the three items in the parcel were delicious and I've already managed to taste everything! Johanna had also included a lovely note introducing the items in the parcel. Although an Austrian living in London, Johanna has an Italian grandfather, so the parcel was a nod to her Italian roots.



There was a jar of chilli & coriander pesto that I used to spice up my fresh (though not home made) mushroom tortellini - lovely. This shop-bought pesto was a last-minute replacement for the homemade cashew, rocket & chilli pesto. I'm looking forward to Johanna posting the recipe for the original pesto on her website soon, so that I could try that one as well:)

The other delicious item in the parcel was a bag of cantucci, the crunchy Italian biscuits. I nibbled on Johanna's really nice almond, ginger and pink peppercorn cantucci while drinking tea and watching a DVD with two friends. The cantucci were gorgeous - crunchy and sweet, with sneakily devillish pink peppercorns (see the pink dots on the picture?) giving some bite every now and then.

And finally, there was a lovely small jar of fragolaceto. I had never heard of that before, and it's was my loss, as it was gorgeous. Johanna describes it as 'strawberry jam with balsamico' and says that it is 'best consumed with (hard) cheese, like parmesan or old gouda. Some people even pour it over vanilla ice cream!'. I really enjoyed this preserve. You see, I had come across several recipes combining strawberries and balsamic vinegar before, but somehow they failed to entice and convince me. I am now so going to try that combination soon. Meanwhile, I ate a spoonful of fragolaceto with some sliced Estonian smoked cheese, suitsujuust. Lovely. And then I threw a spoonful to my Scottish strawberry + Italian mascarpone dessert (ehh - that's strawberries and mascarpone in a small bowl kind of dessert). Utterly lovely again. I really like the sweet-tangy flavour combination - no wonder it complements both savoury and sweet dishes.

PS The DVD I was re-watching while eating cantucci was Todd Solondz's utterly weird and disturbing Happiness from 1999. There must have been something in those yummy cantucci to spark my memory, as I actually rememembered what was going to happen every now and then despite of having seen it last time more than five years ago.. Or maybe it was the rosemary I had couple of weeks ago:)

Update 9 Aug 05: Johanna has kindly posted the recipes for fragolaceto and rocket & cashew pesto on her site, the passionate cook, now. Thank you!